Seville

I really like Seville and in some ways wish I had chosen to study Spanish there. Not that that would have helped me in my progression with the language BUT I think the life style in Seville would have suited me much better in many ways. I liked the layout of the city and it was very easy to get around and they actually HAVE signs on the streets which makes life much easier when looking for things in a strange city. Actually what I've learned about myself, is that maps are a good guide but I like to wander and rather then street signs I'm better at landmarks and while sometime it takes me a while to find the same place, I eventually do.

So, my new friend, Jenna, who was in my Spanish class in Granada, decided to join me in Seville for the weekend. She booked us into a hostel that she found online and the first night we had a three bed dorm which was fine until we found out it was a mixed dorm! Okay, news to me...and Jenna. It worked out even though our roommate was an English bloke whose skills in the English language where challenged...or was it our challenge in understanding? Anyway, he may as well have been speaking Spanish! The next night we moved into a double and the only other roommates we had were uninvited.....mosquitoes or some sort of biting insects!

We had a great time seeing the sights in Seville including a 16 century mansion remolded in 1924 by the Countess Lebrija...whoever she was. She had an amazing art collection of Roman mosaics, statues and tiles. In case you haven't noticed, I've become a bit obsessed by tiles and also stained glass. I love the colors and designs and the inspiration-the artist coming out in me. Also, the Arabic architecture is fascinating! The other places we visited were the Alcazar which is somewhat of a smaller version of the Alhambra but very different in it's layout and nowhere near the magnificence of the gardens at the Alhambra.

The Cathedral is one of the largest in Europe and it truly is mind boggling. I can appreciate the years of work, the architecture but the Catholic symbolism and gets to be a bit much to be honest.

We also went to Plaza Espana which was beautiful and there are so many parks in Seville of which I explored the last day I spent in Seville as well as enjoy a run one night after it rained and the sun was setting and there were runners, bikers, rollerbladers everywhere....I felt right at home.
View my photos at:
www.picasweb.google.com/tonibodeau/Seville

Another World!

I went to Morocco this past weekend on a tour. Lesson number one; no more tours! I decided to go with the tour because being a woman alone, Morocco is not the place you want to go on your own. Over all it was a good introduction to the country but there would be so much more to experience without being tied to a time schedule and limited areas to explore.

We were primarily in the North of North Africa in three different areas; Tetuan, Tanger and Chef-Chaouen. The weather was beautiful and the country amazing in so many ways; the color, the people and just a different way of looking at the world. Nothing like anyplace I've ever been to. In Tetan, we went to some traditional markets where the locals hang out and shop. We were a large group and no doubt stood out but we didn't see many other tourist in this area.

We were given "free time" to shop and taken to this amazing carpet store where they just sat us down (and maybe locked the door, I'm not sure but that was the feel) and started putting out a ton of rugs and they were all smiles and happy until they started taking us aside in the little corners of the shop and giving us outrageous prices and then the smiles vanished when hardly anyone would buy.

We were then taken to a "traditional" Moroccan meal that was not the best...not really even good! We were very disappointed to say the least.

The next day was my favorite day. We drove up into the mountain to Chef-Chaouen. This was a truly magical place with incredible mountain views and the areas we walked and shopped were so colorful and simply magical! Once again we got taken to a "special" shop and I think everyone was much more prepared. We found out that the same item could be purchased down the way for about a third of the price(apparently the guides get a percentage....imagine that! You learn fast in Morocco about shopping.

We had a very long day that day as we heading back down the mountain and then to the ferry and had about a 3 1/2 hour drive back to Granada.

It has been a busy week, finishing up Spanish classes and getting ready to move on to Seville tomorrow. I've had a great time in Granada and really feel like I've had the opportunity to truly get to know one area in Spain. I'm ready to experience more!
To view the photos go to: www.picasaweb.google.com/tonibodeau/Morocco

Just show up, pay attention......don't get attached!

The last part is easier said then done but I believe it's so true. The entire saying is to just show up, pay attention, tell the truth and don't get attached to the outcome. My time in Granada has been about that and especially the not getting attached part.

The Spanish class has proved to be a tremendous challenge for me and I have not mastered the language in any way or form. Okay, so did I expect that I would be chatting away in Espanol with all the locals....well no, but I thought I'd a least be able to form a sentence! I found myself so frustrated and not really paying attention; to the beauty around me, to the other senses that we are so blessed with. So one day, I just slowed down and really saw what was around me and took it all in. I looked people in the eye and smiled instead of being nervous that someone may actually try to talk to me and OMG...how would I answer!I have been apreciating the taste of the food,and the wine(even my host mom's cooking is better...) I love the smell after the rain and the feel of the Hamman arabic baths and the massage that I experienced last night. When you stop to smell the flowers...you don't miss life!

Speaking of a visual experience; I will post my photos of the Alhambra and I hope you enjoy them as much as I enjoyed taking them. This place was amazing. I don't have my book with me to give you the history but basically the Alhambra was originally owned by the Arabics and overtaken by the Spanish. The architecture was so amazing to see. I tried to capture some of it with my photos. I didn't rent the audio which I wish I had now because there is so much history. I am actually thinking of going back next week because there is so much to take it.

Last weekend, I went to Ubeda with a couple of girls from the school. It is about 120 kilometers north of Granada and about 2 1/2 hours by bus. It's a fairly small village and had some amazing building to visit. What we hadn't considered is that getting there about 12:30 only gave us a few hours before everything closes and believe me, the Spanish take their siestas very serious! We had a nice time and it was great just to get away for the day. I'm actually getting to know Granada fairly well and love that I can actually "feel" my way around instead of looking at the map all the time. Which like I mentioned before, doesn't work well because of lack of signage.
You can view my photos at www.picasaweb.google.com/tonibodeau/thealhambraandubeda
I'm off to Morocco this weekend so more soon...

Las Alpujarras excursion

I decided to go on an excursion through the school up to the mountain area called Las Alpujarras. I signed up, paid my money(I had been under the impression that many of the excursions were included-wrong!) and thought I knew where the meeting place was. On Saturday morning I headed out with confidence and determination only to get totally lost and had to call the guide and in my broken Spangish tell him I was lost and to not leave without me. I got a taxi and there awaited a bus of about 12 other students. Okay, a little embarrassed but I made it! The road up to Las Alpujarras was steep and curvy and very beautiful. The area consists of about 3 small towns and the first one we stopped at-Langaron-is know for it’s spring water and sold all over Spain.

To be honest with you, I only understood about 20-30% of the guide so can’t tell you in detail about the area....also another way to learn and he was quite slow and clear in his explanations which helped to understand. We went to a wine tasting room and had tapas there. The second to the last area was called Trevelez and very famous for their production of Jamon-ham. We were taken into a factory and believe me after that I seriously am considering vegetarianism! The smell along made me sick but what I understood was interesting.

Over all, a good way to spend a Saturday and it was a bit cooler there. We got back about 8:00 and I headed back to the casa and ate a light dinner and relaxed….nope, no fiesta for me that night.

Sunday morning I got up fairly early as it’s a great day to run through the town up the narrow streets towards the Alhamba(which I’ve yet to go visit but will do this week so I’ll tell you all about it-it’s supposed to be amazing. It was nice and cool and I got my barrings a bit better and of the layout of the town. Granada has a population of about 300,000 and is a university town. It’s really beautiful especially in the older parts of town and heading up towards the Alhamba. I went back to the casa to study, eat lunch and try to take a siesta but it was just too hot! I left about 5:00pm and walked all over including up to the Alhambra and just enjoyed the quiet steep walk up there and the coolness in the trees.I walked back down and got lost which meant MORE walking. I sat in an outdoor cafe-I love all the cafe's that are outside here especially enjoy sitting out at night when it's cool. Two very classy older Spanish women asked to join me and I practiced my little bit of Spanish. I went to pay for my beer but they insisted on paying for it. Over all....a great day!
www.picasaweb.google.com/tonibodeau/Las Alpujarras

A Fish out of water

I arrived a week ago now. I still feel like a fish out of water! I arrived after taking two trains; one from Montpelier, France and another overnight train from Barcelona to Granada. 17 hours later there I was, sleep deprived and disorientated to say the least. I got a taxi to the address of my host family and rang the bell. I immediately realize that she, Carmen, spoke no English and basically I speak little or no Spanish……….yikes! Luckily, the other two girls staying here do and Sophia, a cute young English girl, acted as my initial tour guide and interpreter. Talk about immersed! The whole idea is just that- in order to learn the language and the culture you need to speak Spanish as much as possible but when you can only say hello, goodbye, thank you and where is the bathroom, it’s a bit of a culture shock to say the least. Hardly anyone speak English, even in the shops.

I got settled into my hotbox of a room and had a wander around Granada with Sophia as my guide. Sundays are typically very quiet being that Saturday is a big fiesta night and often the partiers don’t come home until 6 or 7 am so Sunday is a big siesta day. We stopped and had a drink and it’s typical that you get free tapas with any beverage order. Nice!

Back to the casa for lunch which is usually about 2:00-anywhere from 12:30-2:00 in Spain. That was my second eye opener. Carmen seems to only cook with mucho grease; I watched her fry an egg in about an inch of oil and then deep-fry potatoes(papas fritas) The food is also very salty but luckily the water here in Granada is pure and fresh and believe me I’ve been going through a lot of it. I questioned whether I could survive the cooking after that first meal and for a month at that. I only signed up for two meals a day; so I’ve opted for breakfast and lunch and figured I could always go out for an evening drink enjoying sitting outside and people watching having tapas and maybe a salad.

Monday morning came and off I went to the Spanish language school. I was put into the afternoon classes which are from 3-7 which I was happy about so I could have the mornings to study, explore and workout. My third shocker was that EVERYTHING is taught in Spanish and I felt completely lost but what can you expect when they cater to all foreigners and not just English speaking ones. Also, Spain Spanish is quite different to Mexico Spanish and the accent very hard to understand. After a week of complete frustration I feel I can understand a bit more, comprehend the written word a bit more but speak.........well barely. I’m good at Spanglish but constructing a sentence still does not make sense to me and understanding congregating the verbs is mind boggling.

In spite of realizing that I am a SLOW learner when it comes to learning a foreign language, I am determined to stick with it and see what happens after three more weeks…..
Wish me luck!

Update on France photos

Hi All,
Just arrived in Granada, Spain a few days ago. It has been quite an adjustment and one I will write at a later time but for now just wanted to post the site for the France photos.
www.picasaweb.google.com/tonibodeau/France